Should Chefs Have To Adapt Their Recipes For An Online Audience?

There’s always something trending on Twitter that catches my eye - a spark that gets the food world lit. This month was the aubergine à la Nigel Slater fiasco (for those who didn’t quite catch it a social media user asked Nigel for a recommended change in ingredients because she was allergic to aubergines – the recipe she was referring to not only contained aubergines but they were the star ingredient with only a few subtle inclusions to elevate the main thing)  – hilariously and eloquently this was followed up by Ryan Riley of The Life Kitchen whipping up a tee fit for the scene (seriously though, can we order a whole bunch for the Consommé team?!) overtaking the “You’re Shouting at Tea, Karen” quip that circulated the months prior. Amongst other things that have made me shake my head at my screen this week, close my laptop and need one too many deep breaths before logging back in and attempting to carry on with my day, the question begs to be asked – are people expecting too much from chefs nowadays?

Back in the days of cookbooks on shelves (that’s still a thing in my house, just ask my bank statement) a collection of beautifully tried and tested, and tried again recipes all editorially combined within the confines of their own pages bleeding months of trial and error, sweat, blood, tears and one too many spices. It was almost impossible to get your culinary heroes to notice you let alone carefully devise a brand-new recipe just for you, because you find theirs unpalatable or unable to digest certain ingredients on the plate. But with the new-age media almost respond-immediately or you’re cancelled culture have we become to expect too much from our culinary chums? Or is that just part of the job nowadays? Should all aspiring chefs replace culinary skills with adaptability on their CV’s?

Ryan Riley - The Life Kitchen

With the food world growing exponentially and everyones’ neighbour and his best friend now an aspiring food blogger should you be adaptable to your audience in order to hold on to their likes you so desperately crave, or should you stay true to yourself and keep curating your own personal style. Gary Townsend, Head Chef at One Devonshire Gardens, and regular contributor to the Glasgow Herald’s recipe section thinks it should be a combination of the two. “Chef’s recipes [often] depict their own character in some way” he comments but understands that feedback is vital to anyone’s success and offering out content in any form leaves you open to judgement. “I love hearing about the successes people have had trying out some of my recipes, especially the trickier ones. I also like to hear about how people have modified dishes to suit their own style or preferences…. By all means ask the tricky questions you can’t find the answers to yourself, but cooking is a craft, you need to put in the effort… I always encourage people to be a bit brave and creative; try things out for themselves” But. it’s not always that simple. With the whole world at our fingertips you would think that these simple adaptations would be easily Googled rather than long-shot slung at our hard-working chefs on the internet, wouldn’t you? Wrong.

It seems as though the majority of those in the hospitality industry that offer content outside of their kitchens have been subjected to the horror of recipe replacement requests even after the careful and meticulously rigours processes that have gone in place to design said recipe, for its ultimate flavour and taste, texture combination and harmonious pairings. Of course, there are certain circumstances where it’s okay to ask for a change – such as dietary requirements or religious beliefs. But there’s a line. “I often receive comments asking for substitutes or alternative to suit various dietary requirements.” Chef Paul Tamburrini who has decades of experience in the hospitality field comments. However, “while I understand that people cannot eat certain foods, it must be remembered that chefs are meticulous when creating recipes; they don’t just throw ingredients in and hope for the best. Of course, we must be open minded and flexible with our cooking, but there is a wealth of information and recipes… so if you can’t eat one [recipe] why not just cook something else?” says Tamburrini.

But is it only allergies our chefs should be mindful and adaptable for? Nena Foster, Nutritional Chef, Recipe Developer and Fermentation and Cookery Teacher at Nena Foster Food doesn’t think so. “I am conscious that in the current climate foods aren’t as accessible as they once were” she comments relating to our current pandemic Covid-19 and lack of fresh (and packaged, looking at you here flour) ingredients on the shelves. Whose opinion is mimicked by Arun Kapil TV Chef and founder of Green Saffron who states that “It’s a tricky one. As a general rule, I would say no. However, the last few weeks and months have shown us that being adaptable in our cooking is… essential. There is always room to manoeuvre when it comes to an ingredient list; using chicken instead of prawns; powdered garlic for fresh and so on. But, you have to be aware that there will definitely be a difference in taste, texture or both. ” Although chefs are beginning to become more accepting in these circumstances, they feel they should be met halfway with their audience educating themselves before hitting send. “I know the time and attention that goes into creating a good recipe; it’s hard to see it pulled apart and I don’t think the average person fully understand the recipe creation process” says Foster who says she fully understands how the aubergine question was born, but also realises humour or sarcasm from any party involved may be hard to fathom online and come off in the wrong way.

So – do they have to do it? “No” says Lee Majhen-Todd, owner of Lee and The Sweet Life and Foodie Book Club, but should they? “Yes” Lee says “as far as it’s possible to. Developing a recipe and putting it out into the world in the hope that others will like it, is not for the faint hearted” she comments, who goes on to say that social media is a great way for like-minded people to connect and bond over food, and for chefs to feel connected to their fans, in a way that was once not possible before now. “Recipe developing so that others can recreate them is time-consuming and can feel very personal. Sometimes it’s not just ingredients that are involved, but egos and reputations too - but unlike egos and reputations, the inclusion of most ingredients is carefully chewed over, so alternatives may have [already] been considered and dismissed“ she continues, which seems to have passed audiences by without realising. Lee finishes by saying that “Social media users have a right to ask but equally, chefs have a right not to answer”, and that’s all there is to it.